A message from Macca:
“ There are old climbers, and there are bold climbers... but there are no old, bold climbers “ Anonymous..
I have never been quite sure about this proverb, after all I don’t really consider myself ‘old’ as such (considering that 50 is the new 40, whatever that means...) just ‘older’ as I often climb with younger partners (though some of them are starting to look ‘old’). Nor do I consider myself particularly ‘bold’, I’m not some death defying thrill seeker living on the edge, but rather a controlled climber who likes situations that challenge me in some way. Most of the stuff that seems ‘out there’ will have been contemplated enough to bring them ‘in here’ and made manageable. Or maybe I’ve just managed to get away with it all these years....
The day of the accident should have ended as yet another ‘great day out’ climbing a not that difficult, yet highly enjoyable new route... it equally could have ended earlier with one of us ‘going the distance’ and dying as we explored along high cliff edges unroped. That is the nature of exploration that one guards against. We had just climbed an enjoyable first pitch of chimney, into offwidth, into hand crack and off face move to a small ledge and tree belay. We could have bailed then and there either scrambling off or rapping back down, but there was more to be explored and so I chose to climb through. I did have the option of climbing the first pitch but didn’t take it for various reasons - ‘could have, would have, should have’ it’s all academic now, had I tried the first pitch I may have died so perhaps I’ve gotten off lightly.
The accident itself was simply that, an accident, possibly even a ‘bumbly mistake’ of not fully stowing an etrier that I had used lower down on the climb though equally it could have been a sling or even a piece of gear on my harness. There was no explosion of rock breaking, no desperate fight to pull the moves to safety, no fearfilled final moment, in fact up until then it just bloody good fun and I was having a grand old time, until suddenly I wasn’t... I was falling. I suspect that one of the aforementioned items had snagged on something and simply pulled me off as I went to do a simple move... (Well yes I was very runout but was not particularly bothered by that fact) “There are 2 types of accidentee reports: those who can admit to simple ‘bumbly’ mistakes ... and then there are liars” ... A very experienced friend, in both climbing and climbing accidents...
Realising what was happening I called ‘falling’, apparently fairly calmly, then, upon evaluating the situation, quickly realised it could end extremely badly, though at least my dodgy knee was far from the firing line... one impassioned, pleading thought/question of ‘is there anything I can do here’ had little time for deeper consideration before I impacted and tumbled before finally being caught by the rope. I probably fell several metres before impacting and several more before it all finished with me still several metres above the belay ledges where we had started. Fortunately Zac and Hugh were on that ledge so safety and support was close at hand. Thanks guys, awesome work and sorry for the drama.
As I surveyed my injuries I realised they were substantial and my immediate call was that they should call 000 and that I would need evacuation. Right foot flopping about all over the place; Left wrist out of place and exploding in pain; Left ankle bone sticking out where it shouldn’t. Drips of blood dropping here and there... Perhaps we could have ‘self rescued’ in some way by either lowering down the route and back up the steep gully we had come down; or setting up a haul system ourselves .. but yes it would have been possible but a hell of lot of work and pain that I would not wish on some of my best friends. Had we been somewhere more remote with no comms we would have, but of the options available Police Rescue seemed the best choice. Unfortunately it also ended up a very long, difficult rescue and ultimately ‘luck’ possibly played a part in my final helicopter pluck off...
Now as a final word on the fundraiser I would like to apologise to anyone who may have felt distressed by the breaking news reports, live crosses, video streaming and general drama ... If it triggered bad memories of your experience then I am sorry; if it made you feel that my selfish actions of actually going climbing (and then having an accident on top of that) could affect access or paint climbers in a negative manner then I apologise, that is never my intention... if I interrupted your favourite show or put you in a position where you could not avoid the media coverage, well that’s the media for you and I have no control...
I thank you all for the well wishes and charity expressed by our community, we can be quite amazing sometimes. Your donations have humbled me, it certainly wasn’t what I was expecting nor something I explicitly asked for, but others saw the need... Eternal thanks to Emily and Dave for all they have done above and beyond. And equally eternal gratitude to the multitude of unknown people, friends of friends, and those who I have never met, who donated and to whom I am indebted.. Thank you, I hope you get ‘value for money’ and that I have somehow inspired you, entertained you or taught you some things in the past, present or future. Or maybe you did it simply because ‘that’s just what you do’... Obviously others feel the same and hold similar beliefs. We really can be a great community in times of trouble and that’s how it should be. We are all in this together and anyone of us could end up in a similar situation to where I found myself.
Currently in my recovery it seems that all the major operations are over for now unless various complications raise their ugly head . Hopefully I can now take baby steps into physio before hitting the serious challenge of getting me standing and taking my first actual baby steps. Somewhere in the distance is a return to learning to climb and getting back into nature and further adventures. There are still many projects that I hope to get back to, I’m not giving up easily, and will rage as much as I can against my limitations.
The monies raised will not be wasted on frivolous activities but rather directed towards my care and recuperation costs, medical costs current and pending, many of which I cannot foresee at this time. My left leg still has several weeks of non loadbearing, as does my left wrist. My right leg is looking at as much as 3 months till it is loadbearing which probably means I’ll need a wheelchair for a while. Currently I have no actual residence, no means of transport and no idea of when I will be discharged, no clue what will happen in my near future. Your donations give me a financial base that will allow me to face this uncertainty ahead.
So thank you, may you never find yourself in a similar situation. May your belays be secure, your ropes always long enough, your falls short enough, your gear and friends solid enough and your climbing as fun as it could possibly be..
Remember, Climbing is inherently dangerous so be look out for yourself and your friends and try to be as safe as you can out there. Hopefully you will end up an old, bold climber...
PS. Thanks to all the Critical Care Ambos, Police Rescue personnel, and all others involved in my rescue.
“Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.” E Whymper.